EGA Nametags

About Nametags for EGA

EGA National does not issue any specific requirements as to content, size, needlework technique, finishing, or style. In fact, they don't even have a handout on this! (I hope to remedy this lack very soon!)

When designing your nametag, if you plan to attach pins for GCCs, etc., to your nametag, it will need to be fairly substantial. A piece of unsupported, unbacked linen will not be strong enough to bear the weight of pins, so plan for another way to display these.

Some stitchers have dozens of nametags, and some stitchers have only one.

The following is a synopsis of information from several sources. Thanks to Sally Dewey, BJ Chadwick, Elaine Dowling, Nancy Eddy, and Barbara Joyce for their contributions.

Size

Any size is acceptable. Remember that the point of the nametag is so that others can read your name, so don’t make anything too small in dimension or stitch count. Recommended: 14- or 28-count (over two).

Most people's nametags are 6" x 6" or less. Feel free to make yours any size you like, but remember readability and don't be too modest!

Content

Your name must appear.

It is recommended that you place your chapter affiliation on the nametag, also, as this information is needed should you attend Region or National events. (If you prefer, stitch an "addendum" for your nametag with your chapter affiliation on it and attach this when attending a Region or National event. This way you can use your nametag for the Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival or similar events.)

Style

Nametags can be pinned on; made into a necklace; stitched on a collar, vest, or tabard; made into a chatelaine.

Needlework Technique

Cross stitch, backstitch, and needlepoint seem to be the most common, but any technique is acceptable. Some nametags are incredible works of needleart!

Shape

Any shape is acceptable.

Finishing

Using a plastic sleeve:

Trim perforated paper or AidaPlus.
For fabrics, fold in 1/2" seam allowance and slip stitch in place; or finish edge with nun's stitch or buttonhole stitch over folded edge. Optional: cover mechanics with felt, non-woven interfacing, or ultrasuede (no hemming); or use a backing fabric with raw edges folded under and placed against nametag’s reverse side; glue or stitch in place.
For interlock canvas, block finished stitching if necessary; cut 1/4" seam allowance and fold under, mitering the corners.

No stiffening is needed if you use a plastic sleeve. Ask someone who goes to conventions to give you his or her convention badge or buy such a sleeve at an office supply store.

Using a pin back:
Plan to stiffen with cardboard, plastic canvas, or plastic perforated "paper."

Cut backing fabric, leaving 1/2" seam allowance. Pin under seam allowance and press well. Put wrong side of fabric to wrong side of needlework; slipstitch three adjacent sides closed; insert stiffening; slipstitch the last side closed. Another option: lace needlework to the backing; finish back by slipstitching backing fabric on or by using felt/ultrasuede/Pellon. Sew on pin fastening or medium-sized safety pin.

Using a necklace:
Finish as with a pin back, stiffening with something. Finish back if desired. Attach ribbon or cord to upper corners for hanging around the neck.

Using a ribbon pendant:
Finish as with a pin back, stiffening with something. Take a 2" length of approximately 1"-wide ribbon; pin one end to the top of the nametag, thus suspending it from the ribbon. Attach nametag by pinning top end of ribbon to clothing with an EGA or other decorative pin.

Quick-Finish Nametags

Besides perforated paper (or plastic perforated "paper"), other quick techniques include using a pre-finished bookmark or appliqué (heart, oval, circle).

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